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Ep8 – Northern Spain’s Scenic Coast

Tue 13/08 – Wed 14/08: A Visit to Santander, Japanese Style


After an easy journey, Turadh sails into Santander in the early afternoon. The choice between two marinas, the prestigious Real Club Marina in the heart of the city or the more industrial marina, is irrelevant as we find a picturesque anchorage just in front of Hotel Real Santander, near the La Magdalena Peninsula. Despite a few other fellow travellers in the area, finding a good spot is easy.

The following morning is set aside for exploring Santander, but finding a suitable place to land the dinghy proves more difficult than anticipated. At last, we spot a small beach, about half a mile toward the city center. However, the wind complicates the trip and makes it chubby, and the crew is soaked before even beginning the tour of the town.
Determined to see the best of Santander in a short time, tickets for a hop-on hop-off bus are purchased, allowing the landmarks to be explored in swift succession, Japanese style. La Magdalena Peninsula, with its beautiful park, is a highlight, though the Palacio at the top of the hill, now a conference center, is somewhat disappointing. El Centro Botin however offers some interesting exhibitions.

Fortunately, the wind has calmed by the time it’s time to head back, allowing a relatively dry return to Turadh.

Thu 15/08 – Fri 16/08: An opportunity to clean the hull

Good anchorages along this coastline are scarce, as mentioned in a previous blog. So hopes are high for San Vicente de la Barquera, a place described in the sailing guide as both beautiful and suitable for anchoring. The area is quite shallow, with various creeks, but there should be enough good space according to the cruising guide. Yet, upon arrival, familiar challenges arise—since the guide’s last update, an array of mooring buoys for local fishing boats has appeared, occupying the prime anchoring spots.

One of the creeks seems like a potential solution. It’s shallow, but in certain spots, there should be enough water at low tide to keep Turadh afloat. Carefully we guide Turadh through the creek, monitoring the bottom, but it soon becomes clear that our plan won’t work, and the decision is made to turn around. As Turadh begins to turn in the narrow creek, her keel meets resistance as the depth doesn’t match the chart. Despite every effort to free her, she remains steadfast, and with more than a meter of tide yet to drop, the worst seems inevitable. The long story short, Turadh ends up on her side, at a steap 60-degree angle. Luckily, there’s still just enough water to keep the hull afloat, but the situation is far from comfortable.
Yet, even in misfortune, opportunity arises—the hull, now exposed above the waterline, receives a much-needed cleaning. Six hours pass before Turadh rights itself, and we cautiously retreat from the creek in full darkness, anchoring in the main channel for the rest of the night. Unfortunately, no photos could be taken of this unfortunate event, but the memory remains vivid!

Sat 17/08 – Sun 18/08: A Hidden Paradise in Ensenada de Póo

The next day brings respite at Ensenada de Póo, a small anchorage that feels like a dream. Here, the sea splits around a towering rock, forming a small beach unreachable from land. In this peaceful solitude, Turadh could be mistaken for floating in the distant waters of Indonesia or Malaysia. The anchorage isn’t particularly sheltered, but with the wind calm and the swell gentle. Alone in this quiet paradise, we find peace, wishing for more havens like this along this coast.

Mon 19/08 – Sat 24/08: Entering Galicia

Through Laredo, a fishing village known for its whalers and their distinct houses, Gijon, and Ribadeo, the journey continues to Galicia, the westernmost of the four provinces in southern Biscay. Galicia is famed for its “rías,” long inlets of the sea that create stunning sailing areas and picturesque anchorages.

The first ría on the way is the Ría de Viveiro. At the far end lies the city of Viveiro, with a large beach and a wide anchorage. We anchor here among good company: two Swedish boats, a Danish, an American, a British, a Dutch, and of course, Turadh. With the weather cooperating, a few relaxing days are spent here. Viveiro would also be a good spot for wintering, were it not that the connection to A Coruna airport and Santiago de Compostella is a bit too difficult for our liking.

Sun 25/08: Orca Rumours and the Tension of the Sea

Reports begin circulating on social media and in various Telegram groups about orcas moving north, sparking concern among sailors. The atmosphere becomes tense as this becomes the main topic of discussion. Orcas and sailboats have had no physical interactions until recent years, but since 2020, certain orcas have developed a habit of “playing” with the rudders of sailboats. They hang onto or ram the rudder, occasionally even breaking it, making orca encounters quite nerve-wracking.
The orcas in this area are a subspecies known as Iberian orcas, with a population of only about 40 individuals, usually residing around Gibraltar. However, in early September, they follow tuna schools northward. This season, they seem to have left earlier than usual, and by the time Turadh is anchored in Viveiro, orcas are already spotted 50 miles south of A Coruña, our next planned destination.

After discussing a strategy with Leon from the Regina Laska, an expert on the region, the decision is made to split the journey to A Coruña into two days, with a stopover in Cedeira. Following the advice of Orca.pt, we sail Turadh as close to the coast as is safely possible. The nerves remain high, but the journey is completed safely, arriving in the Ría de Betanzos, just north of A Coruña, where anchoring in Ares marks the end of the long sailing legs for this season.

Mon 26/08 till the end: A Winter Home in Sada

With the long voyages of the season behind us, we now need to seek a place for Turadh to rest for the winter. Not far from Ares lies the village of Sada, home to the Sadamar marina, known for accommodating boats of sailors who return home for the winter. A visit to the marina immediately feels right, and it becomes clear this will be Turadh’s home for the next eight months.

Before the winter break, however, there’s still some time left to enjoy the city of A Coruña. The city is a pleasant surprise, offering a warm welcome as we dock in the city marina, just steps from the old town center. A few final days are spent exploring the charming streets before the season draws to a close.