Tue 16/7 – Wed 17/7 Port Saint Louis – Quiberon
The wind forecasts this year have been something of a riddle. Even for the day itself, Windy & Co often miss the mark, and the journey from Port Louis to Quiberon was no exception, with strong winds that thankfully came from a broad reach. The bright side? A faster arrival. Île de Groix, a beautiful island that had been on our itinerary, was skipped, as the conditions weren’t right for a peaceful anchorage, and the prospect of another night in a marina didn’t appeal.
A suitable spot was found on the north-eastern side of the Presqu’île de Quiberon, sheltered from the wind with a sandy bottom, a perfect haven for two days of much-needed relaxation. The nearby Quiberon marina, with its somewhat artificial Mediterranean flair, offered a pleasant visit, if only for the chance to admire the sculptures of “Le pêcheur et l’ondine.” We invest in a new “automatic” mooring hook in the local chandlery in preparation for the journey into the Morbihan.
Thu 18/7 – Fri 19/7 Morbihan, wild currents and enchanted islands
Expectations for Morbihan ran high. This enchanted place, spoken of in almost mythical terms, is described as a “must-see.” Morbihan, a kind of inland sea or estuary with a narrow entrance in the Gulf of Quiberon, is a labyrinth of islands, where wild tales of powerful currents abound. The entrance through the channel seemed manageable at first, but once inside, the current began to dictate the journey, steering the course as it pleased. The boat, moving at a steady 4 knots, suddenly surged to nearly 10 knots over the ground—a formidable 6-knot current carrying it along.
The islands of Île de Moines and Île d’Arz offered serene anchorages amidst the busyness of Morbihan. There, we slipped the dinghy into the water, leading to a peaceful walk across Île d’Arz where we find some odd placed treehouses.
Sat 20/7 – Fri 26/7 Shipmates on board
The historic town of Vannes is located on the north side of Morbihan, but part of the canal leading there is only navigable just before and after high tide. The plan was to meet Sigrid and Dirk, who would join for a week of sailing. It just so happens that high tide is at 8:00 AM that day, so we set off at 6:00 to enter Vannes at 8:00. A spot was secured right in front of the capitainerie, mere steps away from the historic heart of the town.
Almost at the end of the Breton coast, a lingering craving remained unfulfilled—no galette had yet been savoured. Such an oversight couldn’t stand, so a search for a galette specialty restaurant became the mission.
The arrival of Sigrid and Dirk was celebrated with steak tartare and a round of pints, some alcoholic, some not. Dirk’s new car made a timely appearance, enabling a much-needed trip to a larger supermarket for provisions.
The window to leave Vannes the next day was brief and early, but the reward of departing at high tide was the sweeping current that carried the boat effortlessly through the bay. The exit from Morbihan was nothing short of spectacular, with the current once again surging at 6 knots.
The crossing to Belle Île was smooth, and Loc Maria, a beautiful bay, became the chosen anchorage. The sea, however, was restless—too much so for Dirk’s liking—so the dinghy was left on board, leading to a quiet evening aboard with a game of Yahtzee.
The weather, alas, was not kind to Sigrid and Dirk. The sun hid behind clouds, and the wind was but a whisper. With Marieke waiting in La Rochelle the following Saturday, lingering wasn’t an option. Yet, the sight of dolphins brightened the journey, as they always do.
From the rugged coast of Brittany, the boat sailed into the Charente, where sandy beaches stretched out, offering fewer inlets and even fewer anchor spots. Mooring buoys provided refuge in Tréhiguier and Noirmoutier, and at last, Les Veilles on Île d’Yeu offered a chance to anchor once more. A gentle dinghy ride to shore led to a delightful walk to the next bay.
After a brief stopover in Port Bourgenay, the boat reached the grand marina of La Rochelle on Friday afternoon. Though the marina lay about 20 minutes’ walk from the city, a convenient bike rental system offered a charming way to explore.
La Rochelle, a city steeped in history, welcomed with its ancient harbour gates and lively streets. The atmosphere buzzed with life. We enjoy oysters as a prelude, followed by a meal at a local restaurant in the heart of the city. A heartfelt thanks to Sigrid and Dirk for their treat!
In the next episode we will tell you all about how Marieke almost did’t get to La Rochelle and how we make our first overnight sail ever to Spain.
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